The 'must-do' activity in El Calafate is to see the awesome Moreno Glacier. Bus tickets and entry fees cost about $20. You can buy tours at the bus terminal or at any hostel. In the National Park it is also possible to go on a boat trip that takes you very near to the glacier. If you are in a group you can save money by renting a car and entering the park for free before 7.30am.

Heilo & Adventura (tel: 492-205 www.heiloyaventura.com) organize short treks on the glacier using crampons.

Estancia Cristina (9 de Julio tel: (02902) 491133 www.estanciacristina.com) offer boat journeys to Upsala Glacier followed by optional hiking, horseback riding or fishing.

Four and half hours away from El Calafate is El Chalten, "The Trekking Capital of Argentina." There are lakes, lagoons, mountains and glaciers to experience in the countryside surrounding El Chalten. The famous Fitz Roy Mountain (3,405m) represents a challenge for trekkers and climbers alike.

Condor de Los Andes Backpackers in El Chalten has small but warm dorms, guest use kitchen, security lockers and exchange currency. Dorm beds are $13 per person. The staff are friendly and happy to give trekking advice. Click here to book with hostelworld.com.

Over the border in Puerto Natales, Chile there is more spectacular trekking to be done in Parque Nacional del Paine. The best place to stay is the Erratic Rock Backpackers Hostel (Banquedano 79 www.erraticrock.com). They have lots of experience and offer guides and equipment rental. Dorms cost $15. Book through their website. See the travel section about visas for Chile.